How to Choose the Best Shotgun for birds Hunting

There are a few items necessary for effective birds hunting.

First on the list is a cunning ability to outsmart the birds in their own habitat. As any hunter will attest this is no easy task. Nothing makes up for experience in the field to learn the nuances of how birds react.

Second on the list for most people is a good bird dog. There are a variety of choices for a good partner in the field. You can train them on your own, which can be great for both you and the dog. You can also send the dog to school where it will learn how to become a skilled hunter in the field with nerves of steel and the patience of a grandfather.

Third on the list is the shotgun. This is the final piece you’ll need to get out in the field and take down some beautiful pheasants. You’ll need your apparel and maybe a few hunting accessories, but none will compare in necessity to your shotgun.Purchasing a shotgun for pheasant hunting is a critical choice for any hunter. The gun will like be the one you have in your cabinet for an entire lifetime and it’s something you can pass down to the next generation when your time passes.

The shotgun you purchase now will need to be durable, accurate and something you can feel comfortable with in the field. A hunter and his gun form a bond that makes them inseparable. A good hunter combined with a good gun can lead to great results.

Here is a guide for choosing the best shotgun for hunting pheasants.

Weight - The first item to consider is the weight of the shotgun. When hunting ringnecks you can sometimes walk several hundred yards through fields and terrain. It can make for long days if you’re toting a gun that is too heavy to handle. You’ll want something at least under the eight pound mark. There are some that even get in the seven pound range and even a couple below that weight.

Also an important consideration is the distribution of the weight. A light gun is great for tracking around all day in the field, but the weight needs to be distributed slightly forward. This allows for easy tracking of the target and can reduce recoil enough to make your shoulder comfortable for the length of the hunt whether that’s a single day or an entire week.

There may be issues with recoil when you’re shooting high velocity pheasant loads. These tend to pack quite the punch and you’ll notice it on your shoulder with a lighter gun. It’s typically the opinion of hunters that a lighter gun for carrying makes up for any kick that might occur. You can always put a little extra padding in your hunting vest or wear another layer.


Gauge - For an adult hunter there is really no choice other than the 12-gauge shotgun. It’s the best option for pheasant hunting. Ammunition is readily available and cheaper than comparative shotgun gauges. The power is enough to take down the birds with ease. There are enough options available that are light and easy to carry all day in the field. 

The 16 and 20 gauge models are options. Perhaps for a youth or female hunter these would be good options, but the 12 gauge is really a good choice for any hunter of any body type. A 12 gauge shotgun is also good for a variety of different hunting. It’s a great gauge for pheasant hunting, but also works well for turkey and small game.

Style and Action - If you’ve been around the pheasant hunting world for a few years you know that the double action is perhaps the most common. The over/under action of a traditional shotgun is both classic looking and functional for pheasants. These guns tend to be more expensive, but will last a few lifetimes if handled correctly. They are some of the best shotguns out there for pheasants and most hunters will agree. The double action allows for different chokes. A more open choke is often used for the first shot while a full choke is often used for the second to allow for more distance on the second shot.

Some hunters will never go away from the semi-automatic shotgun action. It makes for easy subsequent shooting and can really be a smooth shooting gun. The action can jam a little more than other actions, but the semi-auto action is something versatile enough for pheasant hunting and other bird hunting you would use it for like turkey hunting.

The semi-auto or the pump models will also be less expensive than the double barrel. If this is a consideration for you there is really no reason to discuss the double action. A semi-auto or pump action is a very good action for pheasants. It can be your go to shotgun for all hunting meaning you’ll only need to purchase one in your lifetime as long as you care for it.

Additional Considerations - The style of the gun makes a difference for some hunters. If you’re going to be using the pheasant gun for other hunting like turkey hunting it might make sense to go with a camo pattern instead of the traditional pattern. For the traditionalist you really can’t go wrong with the classic stock and barrel look. You can get the black on black model, but for the traditionalist it’s all wood and classic barrel coloring.

Barrel length is something hunters consider. It’s not a huge issue for the pheasants. Barrel length is something you need to be comfortable with as a hunter. Anything around the 26 inch mark is likely a sufficient choice.

Typically you’ll want nothing less than a three inch shell. This gives enough power to reach out and get the birds that don’t like to get close. There is enough power and enough of a load to take down nearly any pheasant with a good shot.

Gun Recommendations - We couldn’t end the article without recommending a few guns. We’ve discussed the thought pattern associated with choosing the right pheasant hunting shotgun and here are our choices for the best out available.

Browning Citori 725 Field
This shotgun is a great over/under model for pheasant hunting. The gun comes in under 8 pounds and in the 3 inch load making it ideal for hunting pheasants in a variety of conditions.

Beretta 687 Ultralight Deluxe
The Beretta Silver models are great and so is the 687 Ultralight. The gun comes in at just about 6 pounds making it ideal for carrying in the field. It also looks classic and makes a good impression when you’re with your buddies.



Remington Model 1100 Autoloader
For those that want a versatile autoloader there is nothing better than a Model 1100. This gun works well for pheasants and can be great for other hunting too. You’ll be slightly heavier with this model than the 8 pound suggestion so there is a trade off.


Benelli Montefeltro
This is another great option for a semi-auto shotgun. The Inertia action allows for less weight in the gun, which makes it easy to carry around in the field.




Remington Model 870 Wingmaster 
This pump action model is one of the most popular shotguns available. It’s a great investment for any hunter. The versatility is ideal for the hunter that goes from the woods to the field hunting a variety of game. This one comes in under 8 pounds in just about all variations.

Winchester’s Latest Bolt-Action: The XPR

Winchester’s new bolt-action baby is called the XPR, and I got to play with it at the 2015 SHOT Show. The bolt features a round grasping ball with a hole to lighten its weight, and a short 60-degree bolt throw. The bolt itself is quite large in diameter, at least on the ones I handled.

A lengthwise groove cut into the bolt acts as a guide when moving the bolt forward or rearward, and a left-side-mounted bolt release engages with that groove. Simply push on the release to remove the bolt.

When cocked, an indicator is visible (and tactile, if you need it in the dark) at the rear of the bolt, so you can easily tell whether it’s cocked or not. Three locking lugs secure the bolt when closed. The bolt is also coated with “nickel Teflon” for slick operation and rust resistance and can be disassembled quickly without tools.

Plenty of scope clearance when the bolt is open (L); safety, bolt release, and cocking indicator (R) (Photo: Winchester)

The two-position safety is thumb-operated and is mounted to the right of the bolt’s rear end. This may be a bummer for lefties, although when shooting southpaw the thumb will be on the right side of the bolt, so… time will tell, I guess. I’d rather see it mounted centrally, in line with the bore; this is more convenient for everyone–but they didn’t ask me when they were designing it.

When the safety is engaged (rear position), the bolt is locked shut. Just forward of the safety is a small button. Push it down to momentarily unlock the bolt so you can cycle the action with the safety engaged. I found it well-positioned and easy to use.

The Winchester XPR chromoly steel barrel is button rifled, thermally stress relieved, free floated, and uses a Savage-style locknut for easy assembly with precise headspacing. The muzzle of the XPR has a recessed crown, helping to prevent damage to that critical part of the rifling.

Recessed crown (L), Barrel locknut (TR), Action profile interface pads (BR) (Photo: Winchester)

The single-stack box magazine is removable, plastic, and feels a little cheap. I asked a rep about it who agreed to some extent, but he also said they hadn’t had trouble with them. They are one of the lower-priced magazines, which helps if you want a spare or need to replace it.

XPR Trigger Guard and Magazine (Photo: Winchester)

The magazine release is recessed and located at the front edge of the magazine. I found it easy to remove and insert the XPR’s mag. Magazine capacity is 3 rounds in all calibers.

The XPR’s stock–available in black or camo–has a matte finish with textured portions to enhance grip in the pistol grip and forearm. The flattened bottom of the fore-end is a nice touch as it helps stabilize the rifle when resting it on sandbags, a shooting text, or the rail of a deer stand.

The XPR action engages the stock by lying against flat surfaces they call “profile interface pads,” and a typical recoil lug completes the fit. The Inflex recoil pad is thick and looks forgiving.

Winchester XPR’s M.O.A. Trigger (Photo: Winchester)

The trigger is called M.O.A. and boasts zero take-up, zero creep, and zero overtravel. The factory sets the pull weight at only 3.5 pounds, much lighter than we’ve come to expect from most.

The rep with whom I talked said they were fairly shocked at the accuracy this rifle consistently produced during testing, and with all these features, that’s not hard to believe. Only time will tell how this one plays out, but it looks to me as if Winchester may have a real winner on their hands.

Without a scope, the XPR weighs in at about 7 pounds, and the suggested retail varies from about $550 to $710. Check the Winchester website for more details.

shot placement to hunt boars.

First of all, as far as I’m concerned there are only two excuses for a meat hunter to lose quality meat, especially from the hams… inexperience and impatience.  There is no other reason to put a bullet into the hams or backstraps.  Wait for the right shot and take it.  Know what your gun and bullet will do, and put that work FOR you, rather than trying to work against it.

As far as head shots, I’ve touched on this before, but the bottom line is that the risks of such a shot far outweigh the possible benefits. 

To begin with, a hog’s brain is relatively small, especially if you’re not shooting straight down on it.  From a normal shot angle, the target area is only a few inches at most (the yellow on this photo is a fairly liberal representation of the target area for a killing, brain shot).  A small deviation in the shot placement can result in a horrible, maiming wound… either destroying the hog’s nose and nasal cavity, jaws, or eyes.  Any of these wounds will result in a long, slow death, and will make tracking and recovery almost impossible.   In short, it’s a really bad choice, despite the fact that there are many people out there who still swear by it.

The argument that a “good marksman should have no problem with that shot” is flawed, because it doesn’t take into account one critical fact.  A target at the range is stationary, while an animal is not. 

It’s not hard for a skilled marksman to put bullet after bullet into a three-inch target, even at 100 yards.  The target will always be in exactly the same spot, at the same distance, and the same angle.  Once a shooter has the mechanics of the shot down, it’s practically automatic.  Level the sights, control your breathing, manage the trigger pull, and you’ll put the bullet right where you want it every single time. 

But a living target, such as a hog, is never completely still.  Animals are in constant motion, and it’s safe to say that no part of an animal’s body moves more than its head.  What’s more, those movements will appear completely random to an observer, so timing the movements and the shot is not realistic.  A prey animal is constantly reacting to visual, olfactory, and auditory stimuli, and all of those reactions result in head movements. 

Not only does the head present a challenging, moving target, it’s also surrounded by some pretty thick bone.  The skull makes the gristle-plate (the shield) look like a sheet of paper by comparison.  There are weak spots on a hog’s skull, but they’re not large.  In addition to the sheer strength of this bone, the sloping angles of a hog’s head make for a tricky impact surface, and can deflect the energy of a bullet strike (much like a car windshield).  I know of at least two, very reliable sources who have bounced high-powered bullets off of a hog’s skull without killing the animal. 

The bottom line is, much better shot options exist.

First, the traditional “heart/lung” shot, when properly executed, is deadly and quick without extensive meat damage.   That bullet cut the arteries at the top of the hog’s heart, and also smashed up the ends of the lungs.  Meat loss was limited to about three or four inches on the off-side shoulder. 

Even when the heart/lung shot doesn’t make an instant kill, it seldom requires extensive trailing.  Damage to the cardiopulmonary system cases death pretty much without exception, robbing the body of oxygenated blood and usually filling the lungs with blood.  Life systems shut down quickly after that. 

There are two key reasons why this shot is so often effective and highly recommended.  First off, the heart/lung area offers a large kill zone (about 8-inches on an average sized hog), and this is the part of the animal that offers the most stationary target.  Legs and head move constantly, but the chest area tends to be fairly immobile, or to make large steady movements so that it’s easier to hit.

The second reason is simple familiarization.  Almost every hunter has been indoctrinated with the image and idea of the heart/lung area.  The image is emblazoned onto our minds by magazine articles, hunter education materials, videos, and even hunters’ conversations.  We know where this spot is, and that knowledge allows us take aim and make a shot without the second-guessing and doubts that can cause many hunters to make a bad decision.  As I tell clients and newer hunters, “Just put it behind his shoulder, and give him hell.” 

As far as the gristle plate, if you’re using a good bullet and sufficient caliber, you’ll kill the animal.  The exception might be with a truly large, old boar.  With a hog like this, the recommendation is to think like an archer.  You want to hold your shot until the animal offers a quartering-away angle, and then you can place your bullet behind the last rib, angling forward into the vitals. 

There is another option that I really like… the neck shot. 

This one is also a bit controversial, but I think the problem is more a case of a lack of understanding of the animal’s physiology than anything else, along with some failure to understand that you have to make an educated decision when you choose your shot.  The neck shot is a great choice under the right circumstances, but not so great when things aren’t ideal.  That’s when you either choose not to shoot, or fall back on the heart/lung area. 

On a hog, the kill zone for a neck shot is almost as big as the heart/lung area.  Put a high-powered bullet in that zone, about halfway between the base of the ear and the point of the shoulder, and it will kill the animal where it stands.  You’ll sever the spinal cord, effectively shutting down the animal’s central nervous system.  Vital body functions will stop almost instantly.   

You will not have to track a neck-shot hog.  If it runs off, it’s because you missed.  There is a large margin of error on the shot.  Too high, and you’ll sever the brain stem or hit the brain.  Higher than that results in a miss.   Too low and you’ll sever the windpipe, carotid artery, or jugular vein.  Lower than that is a minor flesh wound or a clean miss. 

Meat loss with a neck shot is generally minimal.  You will probably lose some of the neck roasts, but that’s a small price to pay in exchange for a quick, clean kill. 

NOTE:  The neck shot requires a proper angle and a steady rest, however.  It’s still close to the head, so if you’re not stable enough you risk hitting the jaw or nose.  The solution is simple.  Don’t take the shot.

And that’s the bottom line any time.  If you’re not comfortable that you can put the shot right where you want it, then don’t shoot.  It’s a discipline that any hunter should master, but far too few have bothered to do so.  As a result, you see bad shots taken in haste or out of desperation.  Something I absolutely hate to hear from any hunter is, “It was the only shot I had, so I had to take it!”

A sport hunter never has to take a shot… never!  The simple fact is that none of us is going to starve if we let the animal get away. 

We may be disappointed, or we may be harangued by our hunting buddies, guides, or other observers, but we are not going to go hungry.  Sure, we may have spent a lot of money for a hunt, only to be faced with a do-or-die shot opportunity.  It could be the trophy of a lifetime.  But it is NOT a matter of life and death to us.  It is, on the other hand, a matter of life and death to the animal. 

We are not out there because we have to be, we are out there for sport, and it is only ethical and right that we do the best we can to make the death of any game animal as clean and humane as possible.

the news mathews bows for 2015

For 2015, Mathews has introduced six new bows, four of which feature the company’s groundbreaking new No Cam ST Technology.

This revolutionary system boasts two circular and concentric string tracks, which allows the string to travel at a constant distance from the center of rotation during the shot cycle and eliminates camming action on both the top and bottom string tracks. This makes for an incredibly balanced and synchronized system with straight and level nock travel for unparalleled accuracy.

No Cam ST Technology is featured on the new No Cam HTR. This 32-inch axle-to-axle standout boasts a brace height of 6 5/8 inches and speeds up to 330 fps. The No Cam HTR is equipped with shorter, more rigid quad limbs, a less reflexed riser, twin Harmonic Stabilizers and the Mathews Focus Grip. Available in 50-, 60- and 70-pound draw weights and in draw lengths from 24 to 30 inches, the No Cam HTR comes standard with RockMods available in 65-, 75- and 85-percent letoff. The No Cam HTR is available in five finish options: Black Anthem, Tactical, Lost Camo, the new Stone Tactical and the new Lost Camo OT.

And because that No Cam ST Technology is so balanced and so accurate, Mathews put it into a new and improved target bow, which is available in 7-, 8- and 9-inch brace heights (the TRG 7, TRG 8 and TRG 9). New cutouts on the less reflexed riser provide added strength and stability, while the RockMods make for a solid back wall and additional customization in terms of letoff (65- and 75-percent). The 38-inch axle-to-axle TRG  comes in draw weights of 40, 50, 60, 70 and 80 pounds and in draw lengths from 26 to 31 inches. The TRG is available in Black Anthem, black, red and blue.

Those archers who liked the Mathews Chill X will find much to love about the new Chill X Pro ($1,499), a hybrid bow that features an integral grip favored by competitive shooters. The Chill X Pro, which measures 35 inches from axle to axle and features a 7-inch brace height, gets a solid back wall and the ability to customize the letoff (75- and 85-percent) from its RockMods. Capable of speeds up to 336 fps with 75-percent letoff, the Chill X Pro offers draw weights of 50, 60 and 70 pounds and draw lengths from 25 to 31 inches. The Chill X Pro comes in black, red and blue.

Mathews has also introduced a sure-to-please bow in its Solocam line. The new Z2 ($849) measures 30 inches from axle to axle, making it easy to maneuver in the confines of a treestand or ground blind. The Reverse Assist Roller Guard makes for a silky-smooth draw cycle, while the forgiving 7-inch brace height promotes accuracy. The lightweight Z2 is capable of speeds up to 330 fps. This bow sports Mathews popular Focus Grip and is available in black, Lost Camo and Lost Camo OT. The Z2 offers draw weights of 40, 50, 60, 65 and 70 pounds and draw lengths from 25 to 30 inches

Shotguns

A few years ago, Browning introduced the Maxus, which quickly replaced the venerable and popular Gold as the company's flagship semi-auto. (Gold fans might want to check out the raised-receiver Silver, which has the same gas operating system and is still in production.)

Overall, the Maxus represented a refinement of the Gold. It's lighter and more ergonomic and has a slightly more versatile gas system. I own a Maxus, and it's a great gun.

However, Browning unveiled another semi-auto last year that might challenge the Maxus for flagship status. The new A5 was a friendly face to many, with its familiar name and hump-backed receiver. Generations of hunters — mostly waterfowlers — grew up shooting the original Auto-5, or old Humpback as it was affectionately called.

While the Maxus and A5 are in many ways very different, they also share several similar attributes. For this comparison, I used my own 3½-inch-chambered Maxus and 3-inch A5. Let's take a closer look at these two 12-gauge shotguns vying for top-dog title among Browning's autoloaders.

The Maxus is a gas-operated semi-auto, powered by what Browning calls the Power Drive Gas System. The sealed gas piston has larger ports and is integrated with the piston sleeve for cleaner operation and greater load versatility. My Maxus handles all but the lowest-velocity loads (around 1,100 fps), digesting with ease 2¾-inch, 7/8-ounce target rounds up to the heaviest 3½-inch magnums, and everything in between. I've even run some short 2½-inch 1-ounce Venatum bismuth loads through it with no problems.

The A5 is recoil operated, but not in the same sense as the original Auto-5, which had a long-recoiling barrel that moved backwards upon ignition to cycle the action. Instead, the new A5 has what Browning is calling the Kinematic Drive operating system. A recoil spring inside the bolt compresses upon firing to cycle the action. Essentially, it's an inertia system, not unlike that found on Benelli semi-autos, except for one notable exception — the firing pin retaining pin fits into the bolt from the top, not the side, so it's much less likely to work loose.

Again, load versatility is excellent with the A5. I've shot everything from 1-ounce target and game loads at around 1,250 fps all the way up to 3-inch Hevi-Shot Speed Ball at an incredible 1,635 fps. During a recent trap outing, I ran a whole box of low-velocity 2 ¾-inch, 1 1/8-ounce Rio target rounds at only 1,150 fps through the A5 without a hiccup. It even cycled the short 2½-inch bismuth load with no problems. This year, Browning is offering a 3½-inch chambered A5, and although I haven't shot it yet, I expect load versatility to be likewise outstanding.

Recoil guns have a reputation for kicking harder than gas guns, and here the nod goes to the Maxus, which in my opinion is slightly softer shooting. However, post-shoot cleanup is much easier with the A5, since there isn't a piston to deal with. Browning has given both guns excellent recoil pads. The Maxus is outfitted with a soft Inflex pad designed to deflect recoil forces down and away from the face. The A5 has an even thicker Inflex II recoil pad that does an excellent job of cushioning the shoulder from the forces of inertia-induced recoil. It's also slicker than the Inflex pad, for less hang-up during gun mount.

Both guns have pancake-flat ventilated ribs. The Maxus sports a lone ivory front bead, while the A5 has a red-bar front sight and white mid-bead. Both guns have the quick-loading Speed Load Plus feature, an easily removed TurnKey magazine plug, sling studs and Dura-Touch finish on synthetic stock models, and shim kits for customizing length of pull, drop and cast.

Both guns also share the same .742-inch overbored barrel and extra-long Vector Pro lengthened forcing cone for improved patterns. However, the Maxus is threaded for the proven Invector-Plus choke tube system, while the A5 is threaded for the new Invector-DS system. DS stands for Double Seal, since a brass band at the bottom of the tube seals out gasses to keep the choke's exterior cleaner. Invector-DS chokes are ¾-inch longer than Invector-Plus, and threads are located at the top of the tube, not the bottom. Invector-DS is a fine enough system, but my sole gripe is any aftermarket Invector-Plus chokes already acquired won't work in the A5, requiring yet another set of choke tubes.

Traditionalists might be turned off by the Maxus' futuristic looks. Instead of a magazine cap, it has a squared-off Speed Lock Forearm, which uses a latch similar to a double's to secure the forearm and barrel. The front sling attachment is also integrated into the latch. The A5 has a traditional, yet robust, magazine cap which holds the forearm and barrel in place.

Then, of course, there's the A5's humpbacked receiver, which evokes a sense of nostalgia. That hump also aids in target acquisition, providing a rear sighting plane, which Browning has now dubbed the Humpback Acquisition Advantage. Shoulder an A5 and you'll immediately notice the difference compared to a rounded receiver gun, such as the Maxus.

Although my Maxus has a 3½-inch chamber and the A5 a 3-inch, the A5's receiver is about a half-inch longer. This is to accommodate the A5's recoiling, inertia-operated bolt. As a result, even though both test guns had 26-inch barrels, the A5 was slightly longer overall.

The A5 weighs more than the Maxus, but by how much is debatable, since my figures differed from Browning's published weights. Although the Maxus weighs slightly less, the A5 still feels lighter to me. Browning also has a name for this phenomenon: Ergo Balanced, meaning the A5 is balanced to have a light and lively between-the-hands feel. Not that the Maxus is a club, for it's also very ergonomic and responsive, but in hand the A5 feels lighter. This is probably due to the A5's moving parts being centrally located in the receiver, while the piston straddling the magazine tube gives the Maxus a slightly weight-forward feel.

Both guns have gold-colored triggers, but the edge here goes to the Maxus, which is equipped with an incredibly crisp Lightning Trigger. One wouldn't think a shotgun trigger matters much, but once you've shot the Maxus, you'll notice the difference. While the A5's trigger looks similar, it's just a standard trigger — not a bad one, mind you, but not quite as crisp. Both guns have large trigger guards that'll accommodate heavy gloves.

The Maxus has a magazine cutoff, which allows a shell to be removed from the chamber without releasing another one from the magazine — a handy feature, both from a safety standpoint and for when a duck load needs to be quickly swapped for a goose load. However, the cutoff switch is inconveniently located on the left side of receiver near the forearm where it's hard to reach and can dig into the leading hand if the forearm is gripped too far back.

While the original Auto-5 had a similar magazine cutoff, the new A5 doesn't. Instead, there's a bolt hold back button conveniently located on the bottom of the receiver just in front of the trigger guard. This is typical of inertia guns, since the bolt can be pulled back freely without releasing a shell from the magazine. However, of all the inertia guns out there, the A5's bolt holdback is one of the most user-friendly.

Each gun has surprisingly different safety buttons. While both are conveniently located behind the trigger, the Maxus has a standard, large, round safety. The A5 has an equally large safety, but it curves to extend up to the receiver, accommodating the trigger finger much like an indexing pad on a pistol.

So which gun is better? I don't know if I can conclusively say. Both shotguns are so different and so similar in so many ways that it's hard to declare one an overall winner. While I love my Maxus, using it for everything from clays and quail to geese and turkeys, I also bought the A5. For me, that was the only way to reconcile the issue.

One thing's for certain — Browning has a couple of winners on its hands, each equally worthy to carry the legendary gun maker's banner into the 21st century.

some of the best compound bows in the market in 2015.

There I have put some of the best bows in the market (for me).

Bear Archery Arena 34

So here's the first of many models that reflect the longer axle-to-axle trend. This one is 34.5 inches, has a 6-inch brace height, and shoots 340 IBO. I  really like these specs. A long bow helps smooth out the draw cycle, allowing for a shorter brace height and more speed without having to pay for it too much when you pull the bow back. All of this is evident in the Arena 34  with is very very fast. 

A new limb stop makes for a very solid back wall, if that's what you like. But you can remove it and go with a cable stop if you like a softer wall. To my eye, the combination of a sleeker riser and solid colors (olive green, tan, or black) makes for a pretty cool-looking bow. (Two camo finishes are also available.)

Misses:The length makes for a fairly smooth draw, but it's not exactly butter. It definitely wasn't as smooth as some,but this can probably be tamed.
    
there I put you one video that explain that bow

 Bear Archery Tremor and Traxx

 what I really like about Bear Archery is the value they offer in their mid-priced and low-priced bows. Today's flagships are routinely topping a cool grand, which is a pile of cash to drop on a bow almost no matter who you are. But Bear has two new models this year that deliver near-flagship performance for several hundred bucks less. If you're a smooth-bow guy, you'll want to look at the Tremor. This single cam has a 33-inch axle-to-axle length, 6-3/4-inch brace height, and shoots 322 IBO. If you're more of a short-bow, speed guy, the hybrid-cam Traxx has a 31-5/8 axle-to-axle length, same brace height, and goes almost 340 IBO. 

Except for a different riser and cable guard, the Tremor is pretty much last year's flagship single cam—the Vendetta—for significantly less dough. Ditto the Traxx, except it is basically the Agenda. Great value either way.


Misses: The Traxx has a fairly demanding draw cycle, buy hey, what do you want for 338 IBO at this price. The fit-and-finish is not top-end, but the deer won't care. 

there I put you one video that explain that bow

On the next article about bows hunting i'll talk about the news Mathews bows and I advance you that they are really good.

Broadhead Test: Mechanical Vs. Sheet Metal

Today I'm going to speak about some of the best broadhead to hunt deers, feral hogs and boars.

Dead Ringer Super Freak
The Super Freak features an aircraft-grade aluminum ferrule and case-hardened, stainless-steel, trocar tip. Patented setscrew adjustments give the archer a choice between 1.75-inch and 2.25-inch cutting diameters. Spring stainless steel blades measure .032-inch thick and are tested to 185,000 foot-pounds of shear strength. The partially exposed blades make a .75-inch cut upon impact before over-the-top deployment to the full 1.75-inch diameter.
                   
G5 Havoc
The Havoc is a 2-blade design that incorporates a no-screws blade capture at the front end and G5’s Dual Trap blade-retention system that holds the rear of the blades securely until impact. An all-steel collar and elastomeric ring, which make up the Dual Trap, are designed to provide strength and reliability. The Lutz blades are .03-inch thick and reach a 2-inch cutting diameter when fully deployed. The stainless steel ferrule terminates in a cut-on-contact tip


Hunga Munga
The Hunga Munga features a 3-blade design that opens to a 1 7⁄16-inch cutting diameter. Blades are able to open independently and follow what the company calls a “Meat Scoop,” which pushes impact material into the blade to force deployment. A blade clip snugly secures each blade before and during flight, eliminating the need for O-rings or rubber bands and also reduces noise from rattling. The tip-forward design is intended to reduce deflection on steeply angled shots
             

Innerloc EXP 2-Blade
The EXP 2-Blade uses a small spring clip that acts as the pivot point for the blades and also applies a small amount of pressure that retains the blades in flight. A “cam” built into the blades interacts with the clip and actually varies the amount of tension they experience throughout the deployment process. Another unique feature is found in the two-function collar that can be flipped for two cutting-diameter choices — 1.125 inches and 1.44 inches. Stainless steel components are designed to get the job done regardless of weather or temperature.

NAP Spitfire Maxx
The Spitfire Maxx carries a larger cutting diameter than the original, with an advertised reach of 1.75 inches. No O-rings or rubber bands are needed, as NAP uses a unique, pressure-retention system to keep the .03-inch blades secure until impact. NAP’s patented, micro-groove ferrule is advertised to improve flight characteristics and penetration, while the Diamize sharpened blades are said to cause massive hemorrhaging.
                      
No Limit Archery Grave Digger
A combination of fixed and mechanical blades makes the Grave Digger unique among our contenders. A cut-on-contact blade made from 420 stainless steel forms the tip and creates a 1-inch cutting diameter, while the curved, mechanical blades open to a 1.75-inch cut. The curvature actually protrudes somewhat when closed, causing the mechanical blades to catch on the impact material and forcing them to deploy.
                              

bears, a difficult hunt

Today I'm going to speak about the calibers an the placement 
A good Alaskan brown bear can weigh two to three times more than a very big lion. It is the largest and most big carnivore on the planet.
        The shot:
a grizzly, or his Russian cousin must be treated with great caution. the first bullet that counts as once under the effect of adrenaline, a bear has a capacity to fit bullets that imposes respect.
the first bullet should go to the neck, elbow or head.
Grizzly Mountain, smaller than the brown bear is so well more aggressive. the black, clearly less aggressive bear not to be taken lightly. it is curious that in some regions of Alaska, black is reputed very aggressive and elsewhere, for example in Quebec, is quieter. matter of genes? who knows?
        Calibers and bullets 
for a grizzly mountain 338,8x68,300 gauge Weatherby kill him and an expansive bullet type 250 grains Nosler, Speer Grand Slam bearclaw 250 grains and 225 grains are excellent.
for the great osopardo off the coast of Alaska, we have seen can reach gigantic size, any size is too powerful. 375 or 416 are perfect, as the shot could be very close and leafy grounds with poor visibility. to hunt brown bear must equip the weapon with a detachable visor.
The black bear is much more fragile. it may well kill a black bear with a 270 and Core Lokt Regminton bullets. Hunting is generally in the depths of the woods and within walking distance. round bullet, blast and placed his head in the lungs-heart just easily with a black bear. Nor it needs too powerful caliber drilling risks without expanding; the best choice are round-headed bullets, 150 or 180 grains and not too hard.
                                             

The best hunting dogs

Yesterday I was discusting with some friends about the best hunting dogs.

Labrador retriever: Without a doubt, the best all-around waterfowl dog you can find, Labradors were bred for marking, retrieving, and delivering waterfowl to a hunter’s hand.

Their physical attributes make them perfect for cold-water retrieving: a double coat for warmth and water repellency; webbed feet; a compact, muscled body; a thick otter tail for balance and maneuverability in the water.

As perfectly suited physically as they are for swimming and retrieving, what separates the Labrador from other retrieving breeds is its intelligence. In particular, Labradors mature faster than other breeds, which allow them to grasp training at a younger age and handle the learning curve of taking whistle and hand signals at great distances while performing blind retrieves, as well as the complex concepts involved in field trials.

They’re the most registered dog in America for both their prowess in the field and their disposition in the home. They’re the all-American dog that can hunt all day and then come home and play with the kids.
 

American  Foxhound: These dogs were bred with the purpose of hunting foxes, and are still very much up to that task. Deer hunters have also adopted their running skills to fall deer season, but American Foxhound are a great hunting breed because they will pretty much chase down anything you tell them to.

  

Beagle:Perhaps seen as the “iconic” hunting dog, the Beagle is much like the American Foxhound in its persistence, energy, and love of the chase. Its short legs handicap it somewhat in the pursuit of bigger game, but if you are hunting varmint like rabbits, the Beagle is your dog.

 Weimaraner : Unique and elegant looking, with long legs that may make them look awkward at first glance, Weimaraner dogs are fast and calm, perfect for hunting pheasant, quail, or other birds.


Teckel: although its particular shape gives it its own identity, it has the same skills that terriers, which can be associated with this type of dog. The teckel can have three varieties of size and hair, that is, nine in all. its origin is Germanic, where he was selected primarily as an aid to hunt in thickets, good tracker and slow enough not to scare away the prey.

Deers ,not dangerous animals to hunt.

Today I will talk about the shooting and deer hunting calibres
and that the types of animals.

The safest and easiest way is the shot profile lungs. White is great and an animal with two punctured lungs collapsed very quickly. Pointing to these organs, meat is not destroyed may be only a delicious chops sacrifice. Well centered, firing into the lungs allows fairly wide margin of error. A little high, touching the spine; too low, touches the heart; too far forward, shoulders and back too, liver. It is not advisable to throw the heart, as it is much lower and the margin of error is very narrow. Moreover, contrary to the deeply rooted belief, shot in the heart does not mean instant death. An animal that goes beyond a bullet in the heart with both lungs punctured.
The headshot is not advisable. Although it is the fatal moment, it is difficult to put a bullet in the brain; if decentered, will make a terrible wound in the jaw or beyond. The headshot of ungulates justified to end an animal, provided they have trophy since we risk destroying it at the same time. Many trophy boars are lost because of bullets in the head.
calibers and bullets
klipspringer ungulates ranging from several kilos, moose in Alaska, a ton.
The weight of the part condition the weight of the bullet must ulizarse; capitulates in bales this issue in depth. We have seen that the types of bullets of rapid expansion, the expansion of multipurpose normally controlled parts such kind of weight to reach the very piercing bullets with minimal weight loss.
If you can pull animals lightweight bullets rapidly expanding, knowing that the skeleton of heavier and heavier animals but orientranos to the "hard" bullets.

then the explanation more photos of the filming locations.

Follow these golden rules:
      - An animal of a given weight corresponds to a bullet of a certain weight.
      - Avoid very expansive bullets, except in very long shots, in light pieces.
      - You better too heavy bullet and too harsh light because it is a better indicator of launching another too big too small.
      - The harder the piece that goes hunting, but the most difficult orientranos bullets.

 1) The very expansive bullets: ballistic type (Nosler and Winchester)
roe: 100 grains
Suede: 130 grains

2) controlled expansion bullets
  - Normal: Lokt thread type or Nosler Partition
  Deer: 165-220 grains
  Boar: 165-220 grains
  Caribou: 130-165 grains
  mule deer: 175 grains
  Spook: 175 grains

  - Duras: Barnes X or type Bearclaw
  wapiti: 220 grains

  - Very hard: Fail Safe or type A. Frame
  alaska moose: 250-300 grains

  American Bison: 300 grains